Butte, Montana – who knew that it's such a terrific little city steeped in blue-collar history? Centered around the copper mines and over a mile high, Butte's old homes still stand all the way up the steep hillsides built that way so that the early miners could just walk to work. Surely the winding narrow roads must be impassable in winter. The owners', bosses' and bankers' mansions now designated 'heritage' buildings, line the streets adjacent to the old town centre where the buildings were constructed of stone creating a monotone brown look. In the 1920's, Butte was the largest city between San Francisco and Minneapolis. Some fabulous geocaches took us on a circular route right up to the mine, over to the extinct volcano and zig-zagged us back down into town.
A 90 foot tall steel madonna welded by miners (the structure is actually an upside down mine shaft) sits on the Continental Divide high above Butte. You can't be out of view by Our Lady of the Rockies, no matter where you go, there she is.
Berkely Pit a remnant of the strip mining operations is now a lovely reflecting pool and the irridescent colours of the excavated mountains shimmer in the sunlight. Fernie metrosexually hankered after one of the artist-created copper bracelets that were displayed in the mining museum so I bought him one as a memento of our being together for thiry years.
At the Billings, Montana Walmart, where we parked Maggie in a quiet corner by the garden center, two old and beat-up autos were parked as unobrusively as possible by the recycle bins. At first we thought they were employee cars but we realized eventually that the men were living in their vehicles. One of them put silver sun screens across his windshield and opened his passenger door to cool it down letting his feet hang out while he slept. The other drove away for a while but returned at dusk to settle in for the night. The proximity of the 24 hour Walmart store means amenities are always available. Restrooms, groceries, cigarettes, booze, junkfood, fast food. Sadly, it seems that junkfood is the main choice.
At the Wenatchee, Washington Walmart, a rusty and aging mini hatchback of indeterminate make pulled in a few spaces ahead of Maggie in the corner beneath the trees, tucked in behind another rustbucket Datsun pickup truck. Again we thought it was employees. It was a male and female couple, the woman driving. We hypothesized that perhaps they were having an illicit affair and Walmart was their meeting place but there was no fondling or affection dislayed. Instead they tore open huge bags of potato chips and guzzled down monstrous soda pops and judging by the smoke pouring out of the windows, they puffed on numerous cigarettes. They were both exceptionally large people; in fact the woman was gargantuan, wedged in tightly behind the steering wheel.
“Don't look” said Fernie as he sat in the front seat on his computer “the guy is changing his pants in the back seat”. Now normally when I'm told 'not' to look, the first thing I do is look, but in this case.......no thanks. He ventured over to the Walmart before they reclined their seats and settled in for the night. I never did see her get out though. How on earth could they both sleep in such confined quarters especially being such large people and they weren't young – in their 40's or 50's, I'd guess. The car was still there when we got up and we could see the shape of the two whale-like bodies prone inside. It is so sad – is there no way out for people like this? We never noticed this anywhere else we've travelled. I wonder if homelessness is as 'prevalent' as the media pronounces.
The mountain scenery seemed to be welcoming us home with its splendour. The Wenatchee River was a gurgling cauldron of raging waters. Gushing spouts from rocky outcroppings fueled the torrid torrent. I imagined trapper canoes fighting the rapids but probably not beating them. The snow capped mountain peaks etched against the azure sky, the varied green hues of the evergreen trees – yes, this is the most beautiful place on earth. But it takes leaving it and coming back to truly appreciate the spectacular vistas.
